No. 22 – Two Tuscan Towns

In the Tuscan towns of Florence and Lucca Pip developed his appreciation of art and culture.

Who can forget the story of Pinocchio who was famous for his long nose which grew whenever he told lies?

The writer of the famous story, Carlo Collodi, was born near the town of Lucca. Pip tried to think of who he knew who was like that. Who liked telling lies or creating tall stories? After viewing all the Pinocchios on display, he continued meandering through the busy Florentine streets.

At the Galleria Accademia again he had to fight his way through crowds to see Michelangelo’s statue of ‘David’, but the hordes of visitors there affected his enjoyment of the work. He noticed dust on many of the displays and thought the gallery attendants could do more than just stand around.

Inside the cathedral Santa Marie del Fiore in the centre of the old city, Pip stood in reverence before the lavishly decorated marble tombs of two of his heroes, Michelangelo and Galileo. It was rather overwhelming.

Later, in a room adjoining the cathedral’s central apse, Pip was delighted to discover a display of musical manuscripts. He had never seen anything like it. In front of his eyes was the history of music.

He learned that medieval scores were hand written and not on paper, but on leather, or cow’s hide, and that these were now extremely rare.

The medieval musical notation was written in 4 lines, whereas now, its on 5 lines. At first, there was no indication of the intensity, rhythm or even length of notes. The creation of one book could ‘cost’ 13 cows, so they were very valuable. Song books were large, so that many singers standing around the book could see and follow the music.

Another of Florence’s famous sons was Benvenuto Cellini, a Renaissance playboy, sculptor, goldsmith and musician. It didn’t seem to matter that he had murdered several people, he was so very talented and there was his statue.

Despite his ‘high expectations’, Pip was glad to leave Florence, finding it overwhelmingly crowded, tired and dirty.

Many of the beautiful Renaissance buildings seemed somewhat neglected. Florence had some wonderful, and sometimes confronting, statues of male figures. Although there probably were some there, he couldn’t find any statues of famous women on his visit.

Nearby, the smaller town of Lucca, had become a wealthy town during the Middle Ages after discovering and exploiting the silk making properties of silk worms. It also had a musical history, for who was born there, but none other than Puccini, the composer of Turandot, La Boheme, Tosca, Madam Butterfly and many other operas.

His statue graced the small square outside his home, now a museum. Pip discovered that while Puccini was a wonderful example of a musician, he was a poor example as a heavy smoker. In all his images, he is shown holding a cigarette. Sadly he died an early death from throat cancer at the hight of his career.
In Lucca today, people live in and around the ancient Roman amphitheatre.
“In a small apartment where do you hang your washing?” someone might ask.
“I hang it out over the Roman amphitheatre” the lady from Lucca could reply.

Lucca was altogether a more delightful and charming town than its more famous neighbour Florence.

The features of its impressive Saint Michael Church and the Palazzo Pretorio, an elegant Renaissance building were well appreciated and outlined by Pip’s gracious guide, Wanda Martinelli.

Because of her enthusiasm and knowledge, her concern for her guests and her clearness in directions, Wanda was by far the best local guide Pip had experienced. At the end of his tour he thanked her for making his visit so thoroughly enjoyable and they became good friends.