Civitavecchia is the closest port to the city of Rome. After disembarking from the ship Pip and Sailor Boy took a bus to the city, which turned out to be a rather long ride. When they finally arrived at their small but ‘well located’ hotel, Sailor Boy threw himself on the bed. “It’s crazy, this city is enormous. How long did that take, three hours?” The entire morning had gone. All these roads just lead to… more cars!
Already they had witnessed an accident when a police motorcyclist collided with a car. The Roman traffic was fast and furious. Cars zoomed around corners and drivers frequently blew their horns to squeeze through narrow streets that had been built for chariots. They didn’t even stop at the pedestrian crossings. Traffic lights seemed to mean very little, or as one guide derisively said, “They think they’re Christmas lights!”
Looking out from the hotel window, the small lane below seemed just as chaotic as the nearby main road, Via Nazionale. They watched workers at the tiny local supermarket unload boxes of supplies onto the road inches from the parked cars.
“Well, we’re here now, aren’t we, so let’s take it easy” said Pip sensibly. “What about lunch?”
After a stroll around the neighbourhood they found a gloriously colourful café with several local customers inside. A good sign. Soon cappuccinos and deliciously toasted focaccia sandwiches revived them and Sailor Boy was able to study the guide book.
Like most travelling companions, the boys had similar interests, but occasionally different ideas on what they wanted to do.
As author and traveler Mark Twain once said, “There ain’t no surer way to find out whether you like people or hate them, than to travel with ’em.” Usually a compromise could be reached.
First was a visit to the Forum, an enormous site, which had been the epicentre of the Roman Empire. This was where Julius Caesar was murdered in 44BC. Here lay the marble and stone remains of temples, the Roman Senate, military quarters and living areas, such as the house of the Vestal Virgins.
Rising behind the Forum is the Palatine Hill. This was the home of the Roman Emperors and was the location of the world’s first grand palace.
The first ‘themed’ dinner parties had been held here in banqueting rooms where panelled walls of rare green and purple marble were inlaid with gemstones. 
Many rooms had underfloor heating, and the Romans invented bath houses, spa rooms and massage therapy. It was so famous, the word ‘palace’ itself is derived from “palatine”.
Here also had been the first botanical and zoological gardens and evidence remains of the emperors’ love for architecture and art.
The nearby house of Livia, wife of the Emperor Claudius, exists today as a museum with an exquisite collection of frescos, marble busts and statues. Some of the mosaics look surprisingly contemporary and the surrounding partial walls and gardens created many evocative spaces.
Rome was defeated and sacked by the Visigoths in 410, an event signifying the end of the classical period and the beginning of the Middle Ages. Even though so little now remains, combined with the heady stories of drama and excess, it had been a thrilling afternoon.
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